The Outer Hebrides - Pt.2 - 29th May to 2nd June, 2018

Herewith, the second part of  my account of the holiday my wife (Lindsay) and I had, based on North Uist in the Outer Hebrides. You can find the first part here .

Tuesday, 29th May                   Berneray and Balranald

We were booked to take the early ferry from Berneray to Harris on the Wednesday, so thought it might be a good idea to check out the situation at Berneray in advance. Setting off after breakfast we crossed the causeway that connects North Uist with the small island of Berneray. As we crossed the causeway we noticed a small flock of birds on the water to the west and so, headed off that way. As we approached the water we found the inevitable Redshank on a post!

Redshank (Tringa totanus) - Berneray

The 'flock of birds' turned out to be a group of Red-breasted Merganser that seemed to have found a shoal of small fish that they were catching.

Red-breasted Merganser (Mergus serrator) - Berneray

The Mergansers slowly made their way out towards deeper waters, presumably following the fish, and we continued to explore Berneray.

The road that headed west from Borgh was an interesting one with a beach at the end. This was probably the most crowded beach we saw during the whole of our stay in the Outer Hebrides - there must have been at least five people on it, including Lindsay - there were even human footprints on it! 

Beach to the west of Borgh - Berneray

I explored the land behind the beach, where there was a memorial to Angus Macaskill, said to be the tallest man in the world at 7ft 9in (2.4 metres). It seems he was not just tall, but of 'normal proportions' - in effect, built like a brick outhouse! Incidentally, that's Lindsay, and our car, in the background of the first image.

Memorial to Angus Macaskill - Berneray

Here a a few of the birds I found in this area.

Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula) - Berneray

Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus) - Berneray

Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus) - Berneray

Linnet (Linaria cannabina) (female) - Berneray

After some time here, we crossed over to the east side of Berneray, and Beasdaire beach. Although there were a few cars parked on the grass above the beach, the beach itself was virtually deserted. I focused my attention on the area around the rocks that you can see just above the centre of the image below.

Beasdaire beach - Berneray

There was the usual mix of waders here, but I mainly concentrated on the Sanderling.

Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula) - Beasdaire beach, Berneray

Dunlin (Calidris alpina) - Beasdaire beach, Berneray

Sanderling (Calidris alba) - Beasdaire beach, Berneray

Having visited the small museum on Berneray we headed back to North Uist, and paid another visit to Balranald. The tide was out, and here I adopted a different tactic. The waders were down at the water's edge, and I positioned myself on the landward side of some low rocks further up the beach. I sat there quietly for about an hour and a half as the tide slowly came in and brought the waders to me. Again, I concentrated mainly on the Sanderling as these delightful birds were in various states of plumage.

Sanderling (Calidris alba) - Balranald, North Uist

After this we returned to base for another wonderful seafood tea, after which I headed out to check on the Committee Road.

As I approached, a Redshank was out on a rock - time for another Redshank image!

Redshank (Tringa totanus) - near Solas, North Uist

There must have been rather special conditions of weather and time, as I started seeing Stonechats virtually as soon as I got on to the Committee Road. I'm rather pleased with the last shot.

Stonechat (Saxicola rubicola) (male) - Committee Road, North Uist

I did a pass to the far end of the road and then returned to the viewpoint at the summit. From here I had some delightful, but distant, views of a female Hen Harrier. A couple of times she did a 'skydance' and I was so mesmerised that I neglected to record it!

Hen Harrier (Circus cyaneus) (female) - Committee Road, North Uist

As I returned to base after sundown, the full moon created an atmospheric scene.

Full Moon from North Uist

Wednesday, 30th May                               Lewis and Calanais Stone Circle

Lindsay has a thing about stone circles, and our visit to the Outer Hebrides was conditional on her having the opportunity to visit the famous stone circle at Calanais on the Isle of Lewis. We'd booked in advance for the 10h00 ferry from Berneray to Leverburgh on the Isle of Harris, and there would then be a fairly long drive though Harris and up the west coast of Lewis.

I got up fairly early and was rewarded with the sight of a distant Snipe on a rock in the field behind the garden, and a Meadow Pipit on the garden fence - look at the length of those hind claws!

Snipe (Gallinago gallinago)  - Tigh na Boireach, North Uist

Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis) - Tigh na Boireach, North Uist

We set off after breakfast and just before the causeway to Berneray found a young Buzzard on a fence fairly close to the road.

Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo) (immature) - near Berneray Causeway, North Uist

While we waited for the arrival of the ferry, I went to the far end of the harbour wall.  A pair of Little Tern showed briefly but I failed to get a shot. I did get a passing Oystercatcher.

Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus) - Berneray Harbour

Eventually the ferry (MV 'Loch Portain') came into view. As it appeared through the sea mist, the scene reminded me of J.M.W. Turner's 'The Fighting Temeraire' - I suspect the lower right buoy added to this impression

MV 'Loch Portain' approaching Berneray

The one-hour voyage through the Sound of Harris was great, and it helped that there were several of us keeping an eye out for birds and marine life. A fine assortment of birds was seen (sorry, but some of the following will just be 'record shots'!), but the real highlight for me was the Arctic Skua which, I'm delighted to say, I was the first to spot.

Gannet (Morus bassanus) - Sound of Harris

Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata) - Sound of Harris

Arctic Skua (Stercorarius parasiticus) - Sound of Harris

Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylle) - Sound of Harris

Razorbill (Alca torda) - Sound of Harris

Kittiwake (Rissa tridactyla) - Sound of Harris

Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) - Sound of Harris

Great Northern Diver (Gavia immer) - Sound of Harris

Guillemot (Uria aalge) - Sound of Harris

All too soon we were approaching Harris.

Harris, from MV 'Loch Portain'

Someone called that there was a seal on the starboard side. It was quite close, and dived as we came alongside.

Grey Seal (Halichoerus grypus) - Sound of Harris

We were quickly off the ferry, and were somewhat focused on getting to the main objective at Calanais, so didn't take in much of our surrounds as we travelled, although realising that there was some fabulous scenery.

On arrival at Calanais we had a picnic lunch before visiting the stone circle. There are, actually, three sites here, but we confined our visit to the main site - Calanais I. It was impressive, but not very photogenic with so many people and vehicles in view.

Calanais I - Isle of Lewis

There was a small art studio and gallery by the visitor centre, and I had a chat with the lady in charge. This proved to be most interesting as the lady (Yvonne Benting) is the County Bird Recorder for the Outer Hebrides, and I picked up some useful tips - thank you!

On our way back to Leverburgh we had plenty of time to spare and so could take in more of the scenery. I'm not sure where this next image was taken from (I wish I'd used the GPS on my phone) but I think its of Loch Seaforth near Aird a' Mhulaidh (please excuse the lack of accent on the 'A').

Loch Seaforth near Aird a' Mhulaidh?

We were getting near to Leverburgh with plenty of time to spare, so diverted off to the rather fine Temple Café at Northton, Isle of Harris. We enjoyed tea and cake sitting out on the terrace, with fine views over the water.

View from Temple Café's terrace, Isle of Harris

Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula) - from Temple Café's terrace, Isle of Harris

It was a very pleasant return ferry crossing, although not quite as productive as the outward crossing. At one point, a lady who I'd been chatting to about the birds (it turned out that they were staying in the other blackhouse, only 150 metres from ours!) asked "what's that big bird on the rock?". It took a while for the penny to drop - it was a White-tailed Eagle, and we must have passed quite close to it without me seeing it!

White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla) - Sound of Harris

Red-throated Diver (Gavia stellata) - Sound of Harris

Black Guillemot (Cepphus grylle) - Sound of Harris

Gannet (Morus bassanus) - Sound of Harris

We were back at base by 20h30 and had a relaxing evening after dinner, having first released the Wren that we found in the bedroom!

Thursday, 31st May                      Baleshare and North Uist

I had my usual pre-breakfast amble round the property, and took a few photos. It was a pleasant change to find a Redshank on dewy grass, rather than on a post or rock!

Redshank (Tringa totanus) - Tigh na Boireach, North Uist

After breakfast we realised that we'd never been up to the end of the road which passed the property we were in, so we set out to put that right. There was disappointment in that we found two long-dead corvids that had been strung up by their feet on the fence at the far end of the road. This was the only sign of acts against wildlife that we saw anywhere during our stay.

We did, however, have a rather delightful encounter with a Skylark on this road - Lindsay had to sit back so that I could shoot through the window on her side of the car!

Skylark (Alauda arvensis) - road beyond Tigh na Boireach, North Uist

Lindsay wanted to visit the island of Baleshare. This island, with a total area of 9.1 km² rises to the impressive height of 12 metres asl.!

We travelled via the Committee Road - the only Short-eared Owl seen, being at a great distance with no sensible photos achieved. 

The only diversion we made was to follow a sign to a 'road-end sculpture' by Carnach. This turned out to be a delightful community project, but not very photogenic. I did get a shot of a Meadow Pipit with its lunch, however.

Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis) - Carnach, North Uist

Having crossed the causeway that connects Baleshare with North Uist, we found a beach which was totally deserted. There were many Oystercatchers here, on the beach and behind the beach, and other birds too, although nothing of great note.

Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus) - Baleshare

Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis) -Baleshare

Dunlin (Calidris alpina) - Baleshare

Yes, there was a noisy Redshank too!

Redshank (Tringa totanus) -Baleshare

As we were about to leave the island there was a Swallow perched on a farm gate on Lindsay's side of the car. Sadly neither the perch or the backdrop were photogenic but, although I see plenty of Swallows, I rarely get to photograph one, so here goes!

Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) - Baleshare

As we crossed the causeway to North Uist there was a distant Curlew. This might have been the only one we saw all week.

Curlew (Numenius arquata) - from Baleshare causeway

We found a place with a great view to stop for a late picnic lunch on the way to Grimsay. I'm not sure where this was, but it might have been at Cladach Chairinis

Our picnic lunch stop

We then continued onto the island of Grimsay, stopping for refreshments at the recently opened Namara café, owned by Kallin Shellfish.

Our journey back took us along the Committee Road once more, but little of interest was seen.

Back at Tigh na Boireach I couldn't resist a short of this Starling that was gleaming in the late afternoon sun.

Starling (Sturnus vulgaris) - Tigh na Boireach, North Uist

We had another excellent seafood dinner that night, after which I took a stroll a short way along the road from the property.

I'd been hearing Corncrake and our neighbours who we'd met on the boat said that they'd seen one. I had to try! As is usual, it was easy to hear them, but trying to pinpoint their whereabouts is extremely difficult - even when they are quite close.

Between spells of hearing Corncrake calling I started to take shots of Redshank - not more of them sitting on posts, but flight shots. It kept me quite busy.

Redshank (Tringa totanus) - by Tigh na Boreach, North Uist

I was checking an area where I'd heard a Corncrake several times that evening, when I suddenly spotted a movement - bingo! Checking on Google Earth, I can see it was about 65 metres away and focusing through grass was not easy, but I did manage to get just one recognisable shot before it disappeared.

Corncrake (Crex crex) - by Tigh na Boireach, North Uist.

It was time to call it a day, but I went to bed a happy man!

Friday, 1st June                               Red-necked Phalarope on Benbecula

In my travels that week, I'd heard mention that there were Red-necked Phalarope on the Isle of Benbecula. This was to be our last day in the Outer Hebrides, and Lindsay kindly agreed that we'd go and see if we could find one.

Before breakfast I took a shot of one of the Wrens that were constantly round the property.

Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes) - Tigh na Boireach

The Committee Road yielded little of interest and we made haste to Griminis on Benbecula. I'd been given excellent directions as to where to look, and found the area without difficulty. 

My first sighting of interest was a Ruff. I have never seen a Ruff in summer breeding plumage before and, although the bird seemed to be in not full breeding state and did not display for me, it was a rather exciting find.

Ruff (Calidris pugnax) (male) - Griminis, Benbecula

I was interested to see these moths which had congregated on Silverweed.

Cocksfoot Moth (Glyphterix simpliciella) - Griminis, Benbecula

Eventually a pair of Red-necked Phalarope appeared in a distant channel.

Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus) (male + female) - Griminis, Benbecula

I waited patiently (as did Lindsay - in the car!) and eventually they both came a little closer. I was quite amused at one point as I received an alert on my phone that a very rare bird for the county had been seen at Rutland Water - a Red-necked Phalarope!

Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus) (female) - Griminis, Benbecula

Red-necked Phalarope (Phalaropus lobatus) (male) - Griminis, Benbecula

I'd have liked closer shots, but these were 'lifers' for me.

On the way to Grimsay I got my best views of the week of a Wheatear.

Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe) (male) - Grimsay

We'd decided to have lunch at the Grimsay café that we'd stopped at the previous day, and my crab on toast was absolutely delicious. Lindsay had traditional fish and chips which she said was also excellent.

The Committee Road did give us a distant Hen Harrier on the way back north but my photos barely count as record shots.

We looked at the map and found that there was one significant road on North Uist that we had not travelled, and that was the long road which led to Cheese Bay. At one point we had the impression that some people were sleeping rough in derelict vehicles beside the road.

I think this juvenile bird was probably a Stonechat, but I'd be delighted for any views you might have on this.

possible juvenile Stonechat - near Cheese Bay, North Uist

That night we had to pack ready for our departure early next morning. We had a light seafood meal beforehand. 

It is usual for us to say that, at the end of a week away, we are ready to come home. This time, neither of us wanted to be departing. I felt I needed a last turn round the garden, which reinforced this feeling. I was going to miss those Redshanks, and it was if they'd gathered to say goodbye.

Redshank (Tringa totanus) - Tigh na Boreach, North Uist

Saturday, 2nd June                                  North Uist to Blairgowrie

We were booked on the 07h30 ferry which meant we had to check in by 06h45. We woke to thick fog. Any hopes of standing out on deck to watch for birds were totally dashed when the captain announced that it would be dense fog all the way to Sky, and this would require the constant use of the foghorn.

It was still foggy when we reached Sky, but started to clear somewhat after we got on the road again. We had quite a long haul ahead of us so kept going until we got to Laggan, where we stopped for a light lunch. We had the misfortune to call at the Caoldare Coffee and Craft Shop and ordered lunch, but soon realised our mistake - the owner/manager? was telling everyone how short staffed she was and how chaotic things were, while she dashed around creating a lot of dust but actually doing the square root of bugger all to manage or help the staff who were there - you could see the frustration on their faces! We shan't be returning there again! We did, however, check out the Laggan Stores, which has now been taken over after the delightful Canadian family who previously owned were forced to leave the country on an immigration technicality, and it seems the new owners are doing great things - especially on the café side of the business.

Before we got to Blairgowrie we called in at the Scottish Wildlife Trust's Loch of the Lowes reserve. I have not been here before, and was a little disappointed by the lack of extent of the public area of the site. I was just debating whether to cough up the £3.50 admission, when it started raining. I set off back to the car but by the time that I'd covered the 150 metres back to the car I was totally drenched and a river was flowing across the car park!

We checked in at the delightful The Laurels guest house in Blairgowrie, and looked forward to our evening meal that night. We have had many an excellent light lunch at the Dalmore Inn, and had always fancied having dinner there. The Laurels is just 300 metres from the Dalmore Inn! In the event, the food was excellent. However, there were two inexperienced young waitresses on duty who had little clue as to what drinks were available. When I asked what ciders they had, she consulted her device and reeled off the names of a number of beers. When I queried it she ascertained that this was the case - a quick visit by me to the bar soon sorted this out. I then fancied a single malt to end the meal and had the same problem, being offered a short list of 'blendeds'. I visited the bar again and found a pleasant selection of single malts. Please, Dalmore Inn, get your act together - we still love you, but the shine diminished a little.

Sunday, 3rd June                                   Blairgowrie to Ashby de la Zouch

It was always going to be a long slog home and we'd agreed that if it got too tiring we'd find somewhere to stop for another night. In the event, it wasn't too bad, and we were home in time for a late tea.

Conclusion

This, for me, was intended to be a week where I majored on photographing Short-eared Owls. This didn't happen due to the shortage of owls after a disastrous March for the vole population. The situation with the owls worsened as the week went on and we were seeing more owls near the coast than we were up on the Committee Road. I suspect that this might be something to do with the warm dry weather. What is more, photographically I feel that I never matched that magical first evening on North Uist. However I'm still over the moon with the stay.

After a week of absolutely perfect weather, we both totally fell in love with the Outer Hebrides, to the extent that Lindsay declared that she would really like to go back there next year. The gentle pace of life, the scenery, the food, the wildlife were all wonderful. The problem was that we were already booked to be on Speyside next year, with me giving a couple of talks up there. The upshot of this is that the Speyside visit is now cancelled and we're booked to return to North Uist. We're under no illusions that we stand any chance of getting another week of fine weather - a week of constant wind and rain is far more likely, but we are really looking forward to returning.

One thing I will try to change next time is the amount of photos that I take. Going through the over five and a half thousand frames that I shot during this visit has kept me from keeping up with what has been going on with the wildlife round my home.

I take this opportunity to thank Ian and Heather for making our stay at Tigh na Boireach such a wonderful one - Thank you!


Thank you for dropping by. I'm not sure what the subject of my next post will be, but I expect it will be somewhat shorter than this one!