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Tuesday 31 October 2023

Isles of Scilly, 2023 Pt.4 - 29th September, 2023

This fourth instalment of my account covers just one day of our recent holiday on the Isles of Scilly. It was somewhat different to any other day that I have experienced when staying on the Isles. 

If you missed previous parts of my account, you can find them by going to the bottom of this post and then clicking on 'Older Post'. 

Friday, 29th September

I had originally planned to visit the Standing Stones Field, near Old Town, this day to see if I  could find the Red-backed Shrike that was being seen there from time to time. However, the forecast was for the best weather day of the week - mainly sunny with temperatures around 17°c and gentle breezes, and a pelagic trip was on offer. Looking out of the conservatory window, the sea was almost as flat as a mill pond and the girls were trying to persuade me to go for it. It was scheduled to be a five and a half hour trip and, having been told that there was a loo on board, it seemed a feasible proposition. The trip was scheduled to start at 09.30 and as I had got up rather earlier than usual I spent a little time in the garden checking what was on the beach. There was nothing exciting but I took some shots of Oystercatcher and Herring Gull from the garden.
 
Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus) - from the garden, Littleporth

Herring Gull (Larus argentatus) - from the garden, Littleporth
I left base at 09.00 to go to the quay, and arrived to find that I was first in the queue. By the time that our boat, the MV Sapphire, arrived it appeared that a massive queue had developed, but this turned out to be a large contingent wanting to go to St Martins. The boat for St Martins arrived and used the Sapphire as a bridge to board their passengers. This boat soon filled and another boat was summoned and moored alongside the first boat, Eventually, both St Martins boats were filled and we were able to board.

Being first on board, I chose a seat on the aft of the boat on the port side. In the event, this turned out to be an unwise decision.

It started well enough, and I took some distant shots of Shags on rocks.
 
Shag (Gulosus aristotelis)
As soon as we were out of the sheltered seas of the islands, heading for the Western Rocks, we hit rough seas. At times, the boat seemed to be rolling from about 40 degrees one way to 40 degrees the other, and pitching almost as much. After an hour, I was questioning my decision to go on the trip, with almost nothing seen. Eventually we started seeing the Bishop Rock Lighthouse (usually just referred to as 'the Bishop') at a distance.
 
Bishop Rock Lighthouse
Here's a shot of the rough seas which might give an idea of what we were experiencing.
 
Rough Seas - The Western Rocks
I did manage to get a poor shot of a Gannet on the water.
 
Gannet (Morus bassanus) - near the Western Rocks
After being out for an hour and a half, we arrived at the Bishop, where a Red-footed Booby had been being seen regularly during the preceding weeks and this was, of course, the main reason for us heading to the Bishop. 
 
Bishop Rock Lighthouse
The Bishop is an impressive structure, built in 1858, and at 49 metres high, the tallest lighthouse in UK.
 
The Red-footed Booby was not seen when we were there, with just some Shags round the base and a gull up near the helipad where the Booby usually roosted.
 
Bishop Rock Lighthouse
We then headed north to try and find some birds. By the time we'd been out about two and a half hours, I was getting concerned as to how I was going to last another three hours without going to the loo which was towards the front of the boat, as I'd  never make it from my position at the stern. At one point I'd tried to change position to the bench that was less than a metre in front of me, so that I could look in the opposite direction when a sudden list had me crashing to the floor on my back. Fortunately there was no damage to my camera or binoculars, or to me!

It then seemed that suddenly we were seeing birds, and the sea became a little more calm. I believe that the rough seas had been largely due to us being in relatively shallow water, and that now we were in deeper water things were more comfortable. Photography was still very challenging, however, and the large majority of my attempts were out of focus or totally off subject. 
 
Before I go any further with this account, I give fair warning that my ID skills when it comes to sea birds is anything but good, I consider myself a novice part-time birder with very little experience of sea birds. If I make any mistakes in my IDs below, please let me know, and I will gratefully correct the entry.
 
The first real opportunities came when crew members started putting out 'chum' to attract the birds. This initially attracted mainly Great Black-backed Gulls. I took a lot of shots of these, mainly to get practice in case anything more exciting came along, but I also rarely get an opportunity to photograph this species in flight anyway.




Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus) - IoS Pelagic

The occasional Gannet passed by as well.

Gannet (Morus bassanus) - IoS Pelagic

We then started seeing Sheerwaters. I was a little disadvantaged as, although warnings of approaching birds were given over the tannoy, located on the bridge, the messages were lost to me in the rear of the boat as the noise of the engines, sea, and wind was being over-amplified by my hearing aids. Fortunately, the person next to me realised my predicament and kindly relayed some of the messages to me, but mostly too late! I must remember, next time, to remove my hearing aids.

I did manage to get some photos. This is, I believe, a Cory's Shearwater.

Cory's Sheerwater (Calonectris borealis) - IoS Pelagic
Our crew did an absolutely excellent job in finding rafts of birds on the water, and there were some wonderful fly-pasts too. Here are some more of my shots.

Cory's Sheerwater (Calonectris borealis) Great Sheerwater (Ardenna gravis) Sooty Sheerwater (Ardenna grisea) - IoS Pelagic

Cory's Sheerwater (Calonectris borealis) Great Sheerwater (Ardenna gravis) - IoS Pelagic

Cory's Sheerwater (Calonectris borealis) Great Sheerwater (Ardenna gravis) Sooty Sheerwater (Ardenna grisea) - IoS Pelagic

Cory's Sheerwater (Calonectris borealis) - IoS Pelagic

Gannet (Morus bassanus) - IoS Pelagic



Great Skua (Stercorarius skua) - IoS Pelagic

Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus) - IoS Pelagic

Cory's Sheerwater (Calonectris borealis) - IoS Pelagic

Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus) - IoS Pelagic
I was particularly pleased to get the Great Skua (alternative name 'Bonxie') photos.
 
The tally of birds seen during the pelagic - not necessarily by me, I hasten to add! - was 150+ Cory's Sheerwater,  80+ Great Shearwater, 7 Sooty Shearwater, 8 Manx Shearwater, 1 Arctic Skua, 4 Great Skua, 1 'large skua', 1 Grey Phalarope, 5 European Storm Petrels. 

You can see from the above list that I failed to see or photograph a number of these.

We returned to the islands from the north-east, a direction which I only realised when we passed the Daymark on St. Martin's.

Daymark - St. Martin's
Closer to home, as we approached Hugh Town, St. Mary's, my last shots of the trip were of Shags, once more.
 
Shag (Gulosus aristotelis)

By some miracle, I did manage to wait for relief until we disembarked just before 15.00, but in my haste to go to the loos on the quay, I left my camera bag on board, not realising my mistake until I reached base. My thanks to Skipper of the Sapphire, Joe Pender, for taking it to the ticket office.
 
Although I'd been very concerned during the first part of the trip, this turned out to be an absolutely wonderful experience, thanks to the great job done by Joe Pender, Bob Flood, and the rest of the Scilly Pelagics crew. Would I do it again? - you bet! - but I might be looking for one when the seas were a bit more calm. Maybe next time I'll be lucky enough to see some Cetaceans too?

On return to base, I had a very late lunch and a relax, spending a little time sitting on a rock on Porthcressa Beach, hoping for some birds to come to me.

The evening was spent on 'admin' and shopping at the Co-op and, as seemed to be the norm for this holiday, we turned in for a relatively early night.
 
My thanks to the whole Scilly Pelagics team for an exciting and memorable day.
 
 

I believe that my next blog post will feature the last days of our stay, and will be a little shorter than this one. 

In the meantime, pleased take good care of yourselves and Nature. Thank you for dropping by - - - Richard



28 comments:

  1. Beautiful photos. I like all the seabirds.

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    1. Thank you, Caroline. I wish I had more opportunities to photograph sea birds. Best wishes - - - Richard

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  2. Exciting and memorable day indeed Richard. So pleased you decided on the pelagic trip, I would have strongly recommended you did so had I have know it was a possibility for you. Your encounters and images with the skuas and shearwaters were particularly good. Would you do it again?....you bet!

    Regards....Pete.

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    1. I shall certainly be looking out for more pelagic opportunities in the future, Pete. I was very grateful to Lindsay and our daughter for their insistence that I should go, in spite of the cost.

      Best wishes - - - Richard

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  3. What a great opportunity!

    I, also, would jump at a chance to see pelagic birds. You achieved some very nice photographs under what sounds like difficult conditions. The Great Skua would have made my day.

    Thank goodness for a responsible captain to return your photo bag. Seems like the entire crew did a good job.

    Looking forward to more adventure from the Isles of Scilly.

    Gini and I are doing very well. The weather and birding are good. We hope you and Lindsay are having a wonderful week.

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    1. I had been starting to get a taste for pelagic birds from our annual one hour and fortyfive minute ferry crossings between the Scottish mainland and the Western Isles, Wally. This Scilly Pelagic trip was something else, however and has given me a real taste for such things - my only concern is my own limitations.

      Good to know that you're OK over there. It's mainly cold and a bit wet here, and I've not been out with the camera for more than two weeks. I'm hoping to sort that out soon.

      My very best wishes to you and Gini - - - Richard

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  4. Hello Richard, Lovely post, my sort of area to photograph in, but not now, I prefer the comfort of my room with my foxes. I get great pleasure at looking at yours though. Take care on those rocks. Mike.

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    1. I am always careful where the sea is concerned, Mike, having had a scary moment in my younger days!

      Best wishes - - - Richard

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  5. Hello Richard,
    Such things have happened to me before, I left the camera and only noticed later, I know your shock at that moment very well... all I can say about the pictures is that you achieved very good results with the waves, I was in the Vacationing on a boat and knowing that it is anything but easy to take photos like that. A lot of waste, but you're even happier when some of the pictures turn out well.
    Greetings Frank

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    1. Before I retired, Frank, I used to run rail tours all over Europe and sometimes further afield. With so many people to look after on trains, I have more than once left something on the luggage rack or coat hooks by mistake - never anything very valuable however.

      Yes, there were many shots that were discarded, with only about 10% of frames kept. I was also pleased that I thought to take a spare battery with me.

      My best wishes - - - Richard

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  6. Wonderful to se the shearwaters & Great Skua so well. Been an amazing Scilly season for seabirds.

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    1. It has been an amazing Scilly season all round. At least five American Painted Ladies, and they think they might have emerged locally as all looking pristine (a first breeding for UK?). At least three Green Darners - also in fine condition. I wish that I'd been there a couple of weeks later than I was.

      Best wishes - - - Richard

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  7. Hello Richard :=)
    You did a marvellous job of photographing sea birds, especially in turbulent conditions. There are no seat belts on board a boat, and holding your camera still, must have been very difficult. I have been on board boats in choppy sea conditions on the way to the Berlengas Islands, so know. just how tough it can be. However you skilfully achieved great results.The Great Skua, Shearwaters and Gannet are particularly good. What an adventure it turned out to be, and I'm pleased that thanks to the captain you got your camera bag back.
    All the best to both you and Linsay.

    ps Why would I not like your choice of music? :=)

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    1. Photography was a bit of a challenge on that boat, Sonia, but it was good to be able to practice getting flight shots of birds - particularly when the birds were so special.

      I got the impression that you favour quiet gentle music. My favourite music is electric blues, and bluesy rock - possibly a bit more strident than you would appreciate?

      My very best wishes - take good care - - - Richard

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  8. Hi Richard!!!... Excellent array of pictures.. Fantastic birds!!! Best regards

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    1. Thank you Ana - if I had your photographic talents I would have done much better!

      My best wishes - - - Richard

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  9. Curious to find out the type of music you enjoy I'm back, and although I'm a jazz fan, I do believe you are right
    in your assumption. Thank you!:=)

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  10. Looks to me, Richard, that your first pelagic trip was a bang-up experience. The opportunity to see birds that are impossible to see ashore is a lure not to be resisted. If I lived closer to the coast I am sure I would try to negotiate a package deal to go out several times a year. Rough seas are just part of the experience, although they can make it difficult to view birds, let alone photograph them. I think you did exceptionally well. You mention cetaceans. On one trip out of San Diego, CA we had a superlative encounter with seventeen Grey Whales. On a pelagic to the Humboldt Current from Valparaiso, Chile we saw a species rarely encountered and on the way back to port the captain of the vessel broke out a bottle of wine to celebrate the sighting. Now that's a pelagic! Best wishes to you and Lindsay - David

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    1. I wonder what sort of boats your pelagics were on, David. The MV Sapphire that we were on was quite small - a Kingfisher K50 which is 15 metres long with a 5 metre beam. It performed extremely well, but a larger boat might have been a bit more stable and made photography easier. There were probably around 20 - 25 passengers on board that day, although it had the capacity for many more, but it did give everyone the opportunity to have a seat at the edge of the deck.

      Your cetacean experiences sound wonderful - I'm now wanting to go back for more!

      My best wishes to you both - - - Richard

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  11. The boat on the pelagic in the Humboldt Current was quite small and we were just five passengers. The boat out of California was quite a bit bigger with many "general" tourists - I would say eighty people or so, with a snack bar on board. It was principally a whale-watching tour, but where there are whales there are likely birds - and there were, in abundance.

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    1. Just five passengers sounds very exclusive - a decent measure of wine for all in that one bottle then!

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  12. Hi Richard, what fabulous photos of the sea birds in flight and the lighthouse is very impressive but a shame that the Booby was not around.

    I so seldom see seabirds so ID for me is almost impossible, but I am looking forward to March next year when we will be at Swakopmund for a month. I might get to not only see some seabirds, but also some I may not have ever seen before. I wonder if my South African bird book will help! It is very old and many birds have changed names - they like confusing me!!

    Take care you two and keep safe, I am glad you got your camera bag back. Cheers Diane

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    1. That South African trip for a month sounds wonderful, Diane. I wonder if the Merlin app. has a South African set of data? If so, it might be a godsend.

      With my very best wishes to you and Nigel - - - Richard

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  13. Gracias por este reportaje precioso, me encanta. Besos.

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    1. Gracias Teresa. Mis mejores deseos - - Richard

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  14. Absolutely stunning are you, the fantastic the Cory's Sheerwater, I love them

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    1. Thank you, Bob. I was delighted to get those Cory's Shearwater shots. Best wishes - stay safe - - - Richard

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